May as well be, one that works well in a similar low mileage 300E which runs like a dream.

I'll have a look. Being new to repairing the car I wouldn't have known to check it. The car does seem to jump in and out of the good idle range, it may stay around 600 a second or two just before full stop then progressively goes down until it wants to stall. Only at full stop all this happens. As long as the wheels are turning even with no foot on the gas pedal, it won't try to stall. Since we never went near that idle switch, I'm wondering why this still or exclusively seems to be related to changing the burnt fuse in the OVP. A faulty OVP is supposed to make the ABS light come on I understand when it fails, and mine never has or did.

Any idea what would blow the fuse in an OVP in the first place since I have no way of knowing how long it had been burned out for sure, if it had been faulty for the two yrs I drove w/o problems or 'idgit' lights coming on, there was no reason to check that. When the car broke down and completely failed to start because of the cold solder joint finally letting go in the FPR, not knowing that was the problem I cranked and cranked the engine over trying to restart since I was stuck at an intersection. I'm wondering if the long period of cranking would have caused it to burn that fuse in the OVP?

As I said I'm about to go out and pull that fuse and see if my idle returns to where it was before replacing. If it does I'm no closer to the solution but at least the car would idle and not continually try and stall.

I will check the hoses on the idle control valve while I'm at it.

Thanks for the replies, also to the reply previous re wires/cap/distributor - that's all good in there.

Keeping a close eye on this thread since the whole mess has got me somewhat obsessed