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Originally Posted by JohnM.
UH OH.  .
If you are getting 12.4V with the key to on, that means the lambda system is not operating at all, it's not making any adjustments to the mixture. Your car is not going into closed loop for sure!
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In the morning I'll redo this test a few times and pin the reading down exactly. We did it on the fly the other day at closing time but I'm almost positive it was the number above.
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Ok. So referencing the factory manuals. 100% duty cycle with the key on, means that the system is "Operating without fault recognition". Which is not good.
KE control unit = ECU. And you've already put in a new OVP. Can you swap a good used ECU into the car? I believe that might be your culprit. I just replaced the ECU in my car, because I had failed emissions by 4500%! They do go bad. Which is what your lambda reading is indicating with the key on. My bets on that! Once you replace the ECU, that 12.4V should turn into exactly 7V. Then you will be able to take a real reading at idle, and the adjustments will actually be doing something. You want the voltage at idle to swing about 1V on either side of 6.5V.
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Yup my e-test failed miserably too. This sounds very positive and relates closely to problems I'm having. Several good OVP swaps with no great improvement hollers ECU. I suppose I could try and swap the unit from the 300E I just purchased that is running like a top. I'd hate to introduce it into this problematic car's system if it might damage it however? There's a couple of 87s on my friend's lot that I could likely try out since he uses those cars for parts. Would the ECU for the 87 be the same as the 88?
Thanks for the input John and all.