Your list looks pretty good. Definitely do a podectomy while it's apart.

Are you SURE that the leak is not around the expansion valve? It can sometimes leak into the passenger compartment and fool you.

Now would be the perfect time to reverse convert back to R12. Now that most of the cars that originally used the stuff are off the road, the price has come back to a point not terribly more expensive than R134a.

I think the ACM is what most folks prefer. If I recall correctly, it is not dissimilar metals as is the original.

Examine all around the heater core, especially the connections for any leaks. They are not bad about leaking, but if it is, now is the time to replace it.

Once you have the evaporator in place and connected BEFORE starting the replacement of everything else check for leaks. How you do that is determined by what you have to work with. At the very least, do a gross leak check by pulling a vacuum and seeing that holds that vacuum for at least about 10 or 15 minutes, overnight would be better.

If you have nitrogen, a little R22 and a sniffer, that would be better. Both of those are ways that you can leak check without running the system.

The blower motor does not need to be removed for this operation. Consider this a separate repair.

Do you have a factory service manual or CD? It is invaluable for this project. I prefer to pull the steering wheel which means following the FSM for disarming and storage instructions. There are those who have lowered the steering wheel all the way and managed this job without pulling the steering wheel, but that's not my preferred method.

When changing pods, proceed cautiously. A broken plastic lever or piece connected the pod presents some serious challenges to over come.

Don't get in a Flat Rate hurry on this job. Take your time and lay out subassemblies and associated parts and fasteners in the order that you take them off, then reverse the order when you go back together.

Keep us posted and best of luck,
Larry