That's a great tutorial on painting, good stuff there.
I guess I forgot to respond with some help on buffing and polishing. Without going into a huge dessertation as a how-to, there are also some good online sites with information on this subject. Here are a few off the top of my head:
www.griottsgarage.com
www.topoftheline.com
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/paint_body/car_care/0403ch_color_sanding_buffing_tech/index.html
(this is a very good how-to on buffing paint with wool wheels.
It also seems to me there's a sub-forum here on detailing with some good tutorials on polishing paint. I think there's some good stuff on the mbca forum as well.
Do a google search on 'how to buff paint', lots of sites come up.
Just a few thoughts here...
My technique comes from the old days of lacquer and acrylic paints. As I mentioned I prefer single stage paint systems as they are easy to shoot, quite forgiving, and inexpensive. I have used some base-coat clear-coat systems and it's not much different, just that you have a lot of clearcoat over the color instead of lots of paint color.
I still use course and fine wool wheels on a rotary buffer. Foam pads, polishes, and systems are all the rage now. But good results can still be gotten from the old way, and like everything else it's cheaper too. WEN makes an inexpensive rotary buffer, adequate for hobbiest/home use. They're under $100 whereas a Porter-Cable, DeWalt, or Milwauki can run well over $200. A couple of wool wheels and polishes, and you're good for several cars/projects.
It is very difficult to get the same results by hand as can be done with a power buffer. However it's best not to try to learn how to do it on your pride and joy. Depending on how aggressive your buffing compound is, it can be very easy to burn right through the paint on corners and edges. So part of the technique is learning to control the wheel so it's not buffing across an edge, panel seam, or corner. Practice on the nieghborhood beater, learn how to get high gloss out of flat paint, and practice, practice, practice.
My favorite polishes and chemicals are by 3M, but there are many others that provide quality products. 3M caters to the body-shop industry and therefore has a wide range of products to suit the various requirments. You only go with as aggressive of a polishing compound as is required to restore the finish, and 3M has a whole range of them. Scratches and orange peel can be wet-sanded with progressivley finer paper to 1000-1200 grit which can then be polished to a high gloss. The more defects in the paint the more aggressive your compound. 3M makes it easy, they rate their products by the level of defect it will buff, such as sand paper grit count, haze, oxidation, etc. The same process works on fiberglass, have done a bunch of boats too.
Once your paint is glossy and free of defects, you then apply a glaze/sealer product which also serves as a very fine polish and swirlmark remover. Top off with carnuba or a synthetic wax product.
Be happy to answer any specific questions as they arise. I learned detailing, restoration, and painting starting in the mid-70's. Lot's of projects over the years!