I'm not sure of which pins off the top of my head, but you could do the fuel relay test with a piece of wire substituted for the relay, jumping the connections to the fuel pump. Make sure you remove the wire when you're done though.

If that is the faulty component, you can usually pop it open and see obvious connection failures on the back of the circuit board around the high current pins serving the pump. Just re-solder them and give it another try before paying for a new one.

I don't know if this is what Dave experienced, but on my SEC I had one spark plug wire not get seated fully on the plug and it developed a heavy layer of some white corrosion in the clip where it should have been contacting the plug. It measured at hundreds of times the resistance of the other wires when tested with a multimeter, as well.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...