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Old 09-06-2010, 04:07 PM
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Stretch Stretch is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Step 3:- checking the car is level (Optional?)

I have added the “Optional?” bit in the title above because in order to adjust the ride height of a standard W123 and W126 (without level control suspension) you need to either replace the rubber shims that are fitted above the springs or you need to replace the springs... this is likely to be a bit extreme for most of us. However, I've added in a general method in case you want to check this out.

If you have different circumference wheels / tyres on the front and the back or you have decided to lower the front or jack up the back then you're kind of on your own. I don't know how to account for that... but the following might help:-

As far as the FSM chapter 40-300 is concerned (for a standard car) the W126 is level when certain suspension parts are within a specified distance.

Place the front wheels in the straight ahead position to check that the front suspension is level by measuring the control arm position. The FSM states that you need to obtain a mean value by pushing the body of the car down by about 30mm – measuring – and then pulling the body of the car up by 30mm and measuring. You add these two measurements together and then divide by 2 to get your mean value.

You are meant to use special tool 123 589 03 21 00 to do this – however I used a bit of wood, a spirit level, and an angle brace. You need to measure a vertical value between a position on the underside of the LCA below the lower shock absorber mount and the centre of the LCA inner mounting point – the eccentric pin.

The nominal value is quoted by the FSM to be 45mm +10mm / -15mm for a W126 with standard suspension up to 1987 (so between 30mm and 55mm). Disclaimer:- I couldn't find the value for a W123 so I used the W126 values. I guess it will be similar if not the same as the same type of suspension is used on both cars. THERE ARE LOTS OF OTHER VALUES for cars with different types of suspension so this value might not be good for you – check with your FSM!

For the rear suspension I used the same bit of wood, a different longer spirit level, and angle brace to measure the (rear) trailing arm position. Here you need to measure between the centre of the inner trailing arm bearing and the bottom of the constant velocity joint (axle can) closest to the differential. This measurement is appropriate for a standard trailing arm set up without starting torque compensation. The value for a W126 with standard suspension – no level control - is 38mm +10mm / - 12mm (so between 26mm and 48mm). Disclaimer:- I used this value for my W123 – again there are LOTS OF OTHER VALUES for different suspension set ups and configurations. If you have a trailing arm with torque compensation then you need to measure different points. Again check your FSM.
Attached Thumbnails
How I adjusted the toe in / out, camber and caster on my W123 300D-diy-tool-measuring-relative-suspension-heights.jpg   How I adjusted the toe in / out, camber and caster on my W123 300D-checking-levels-measuring-front-lca-.jpg   How I adjusted the toe in / out, camber and caster on my W123 300D-tool-measuring-w123-level_trailing-arm1.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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