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Old 10-14-2010, 07:57 AM
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layback40 layback40 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
Posts: 4,023
Army,
I am a little concerned that its starting to be a mountain being made out of a mole hill !!

You will see that Roy (whunter) suggested that it didnt look too bad & you should have it checked with a micrometer.

I would respectfully suggest that he is probably the best person to listen to bar no one on this site when it comes to diesel motors. I would put his opinion above mine and any one else on here.

When you have the results of the measurements, post them on here, then they can be compared with specs & appropriate advice given. Until then, any advice on here needs to be taken with a grain of salt !!

The last things I would want to see happen is either you put a bad crank back in your motor or you unnecessarily buy a replacement crank.

I look forward to reading the measurements of each journal (main & rod end).

It is also very important to determine that the crank is straight & true.
I normally do that by placing the crank back in the block without the last 2 or 3 mains & using a dial gauge to check if the unattached journals are true.
It shows a bent crank.
You can then repeat with different journals unattached.

Hope that helps.
Looking forward to seeing the results of the mic on the journals.

Good luck !!
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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