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Old 10-14-2010, 12:38 PM
Manual Life Manual Life is offline
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 241
mine were definitely bad, but it could also be your front sway bar bushings. i still have some "thump" and it is because of the sway bar bushings. i would do the sway bar first, unless you really know it's the mounts. i found both mounts on ebay, new for $90. i'd check there first.


1st - Wheel(s) off (I did one at a time)

2nd- Break free the rod mount guide that goes into the guide rod but first mark the threads before you remove turn anything (i used white out). You want to do this so that you can count the number of exposed threads between the mount and the guide rod. That way when you install you can get an approximate setting for adjustment. You will HAVE to have an alignment when you are done, so do any tie rod ends if you need them.

3rd- loosen the three bolts behind the mount. (mount will not move or pop free because the spring is loaded)

4th- loosen the bolt going through the control arm from the guide rod. removing the lower bushing will help the job be easier depending on what method you use.

5th- advancing the control arm to get proper clearance to get the mount out. while the car is already held by a jack stand, preferably under the passenger/driver side frame, use a floor jack to raise the lower control arm thus making space for the mount to come out. so, jack up the control arm then unscrew the mount. repeat process and do it in intervals. in this method if something slips you still have a jack stand or two for support, and the guide rod will just fall into place, but it will be well out of adjustment.

alternated method (which i will use next time) jack up car, loosens all bolts and mount, use a strap-down or a ratchet-strap and attach one end to the control arm and the other end to a tree or post and simply ratchet the arm forward until you have enough space to remove the mount.

6th-install mount all the way threaded in, it gives more clearance when you have to move the mount into its housing.

7th- mount into housing, lock-tight the bolts, adjust to thread count of original "marked" mount threads

8th- do remaining bolts and wheel

it is is not a very difficult job, just a little troublesome and you have the risk of having the front coil coming out (while minimal to almost zero) is always a fear.

Last edited by Manual Life; 10-15-2010 at 02:11 AM.
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