Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech
... on the sd, you can take the entire mount down, thread in the bushing, and bolt it back to the subframe...
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I removed entire carrier, pressed in new guide rod mount. Not enough room to thread mount into guide rod unless rod moves down OR entire control arm moves forward. FSM says to move everything forward.
I have ratcheting straps that I use to hold a 3500# boat on a trailer when towing. I'll see if those can be rigged to work. Have to see it I can connect to the frame somewhere so not to pull car off stands (Darwin Candidate????) Alternatively, I have some woodworking pipe clamps that perhaps can be reversed on 1 end and used to move the guide rod down.
Edit: What worked: Press to remove old rod mounts. Friend has pretty decent shop so we sand blasted to clean the insides. The carrier is aluminum so treat it accordingly.
1st test bolt & threads to make sure all are as they should be ie bolts that mount carrier & those on guide rod and guide rod mount.
Now use a ratcheting strap to pull the control arm forward. Install carrier loose and thread guide rod mount into guide rod. Use anti-seize. Once guide rod mount is well threaded into the rod, tighten mounting bolts so carrier is solid & in its normally installed position.
Continue tightening guide rod mount so it pulls into the carrier. Mine kept going a little crooked and channel locks pulled it into position. Install back cover. Use a dab of anti-seize on the rubber backing piece & it slides into position. Tighten caster adjusting clamp. Check your work. You're done (with the 1st side).
Don't spend a lot of time trying to pound the old mounts out. Go find a press. 1 or 2 ton manual worked fine. Don't pay much if you sub it out. One shop wanted $70 for what amounted to 15 minutes of work. The 1st time was time consuming because of the trials but it isn't a difficult job IF you have a press & strong ratcheting strap.
Use anti-seize.