In some situations you might want to take the rotor off without dealing with the wheel bearings... like a simple rotor replacement...or not have air power available....

In that case you can get an old steel wheel and weld a pipe to it which will lay on the ground... typically about 3 feet long... and drill holes for access to the allen head bolts ....

Then you can take off the wheel, secure the hub, and use a good long cheater bar ... like 4 to 6 feet to break them loose....you place it to the left on the ground when you are loosening them and you are on the left also.... so your torque is going between you and the ground... otherwise you will be lifting the wheel.... then reverse the side the arm goes on and that you are working on when putting them back on....

This was about the only way I could get the rear axle nut off old VWs.... it just ignored my 1/2 inch impact ... remember, 200 lbs at 5 ft is 1000 lbs of torque...... don't strip stuff out when putting it back together... use a torque wrench if you have one... or you can measure some distance on the cheater bar and hang the correct weight on it to get it right....

And concerning impact drivers.... always use impact sockets,extensions,adapters , etc that are designed to be used with impact drivers... and use goggles to protect your eyes even then......

Peter, on the chisel I was just figuring most people would not be able to look at a steel punch or chisel and tell whether it was hardened or not... so safer to recommend brass I figured...