Camber gauges, spreader bars, curtain rods , etc..

Naturally, a good tech and equipment to do it right, but for the DIY guy, here are a few things to add to this post...[as I know them, anyway]

The given Toe measurement specs are the measurement from the Wheel edge, not the tire [ on zero toe, this makes no difference, but on anything else , it does -- ie, the farther you get from the wheel center , the larger this measurement , be it +/-, will become]
Toe measure is actually supposed to be equally split on each side of the chassis longtitude center line. This means on a 1/8 toe -in spec., each wheel rim should be equally distant from the centerline of the car with the front measurement
being 1/16" less than the rear. That gives a total of 1/8 when each side is totaled up. The practical way of measurement for the DIYer, of course, is to measure the total [wheel to wheel/front to back comparison]
In order for correct toe measurements [ along with it being the last spec to be adjusted], the wheel distances measurement should be made
at the the horizontal center-line of each wheel. [front/back] This simply means that the measurement point on the wheel edge should be at axle centerline height from the ground. Reasoning here is that
the camber angle does not demensionally effect this point.
One of the problems with the curtain rod , tape measure , etc.
measuring tecnique is that one is usually below this point due to oil pans , tie rods belly pans, etc. not allowing one to get up to axle height with the tape[ or what ever one uses]
An easy tool for DIYer on this one is to make an outside caliper
[I can post a real easy to make/use one , if anyone is interested..] that allows this point to be measured from outside the wheel edge, both front and back with no obstructions.
Keep in mind that these are just simple home made measuring devices and there accuracy is dependent on the maker...

On the camber measure, here is another jig tool that, even though simple , can be fairly accurate with the maker paying attention to the Indexing of the degree marks.
This one is simply a plumb bob string [ no snickering] fixture that is held against the rim edge in the verticle position with a bob for index comparison. The bob stand-off distance from the rim is to allow clearence for the wheel bearing cap, as that usually sticks out a little from the rim...
The indexing measurement spacing differs with wheel diameter, so that has to be fiqured by the maker accordingly..
The trick using this tool is , of course, that the car be on a level surface..
When using these jigs , it is important to roll the car back and forth to let the suspension settle- in to the normal driven position.
As both tools can measure without any jacking/moving of the car , this adds to the ability to get close to spec..

ftp://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/camb.jpg