There are several good home methods, but I'll go over the one that I've used the most with great success:

On a relatively flat and level concrete floor raise each front wheel one at a time and suspend it safely off the ground far enough so that it can be rotated. Clamp a nail to a jack stand such that it can be held in solid position along the tire tread. Vise grips work nicely to clamp the nail.

With the point of the nail against the tire, rotate the tire one full turn to scribe a line around the circumference of the tire. You do this as opposed to measuring against the tread because the bead does not always seat uniformly.

Once both front tires are scribed, lower the car to the floor and push it forward or backward a distance of one tire revolution. This is to allow the camber to settle after the car has been raised.

Now with a reliable assistant holding the one inch mark accurately on the line at the front of a front tire get a careful measurement on the other side. Now do the same on the rear of the tires. The distance should be EXACTLY the same between the lines front and rear. Make the measurements at the same height front and rear as high up as you can go without obstruction.

Some old timers (I'm an old timer, but I've learned better) will tell you that you need to toe it in a 1/16" or so instead of equal distances (zero toe.) This is a hold over from the bias ply days and should not be done with radials.

To make the adjustments, loosen the locking nut(s) at the tie rod ends and turn the link to make the adjustment. Look at the threads and visualize what an adjustment in a particular direction will do to your setting. If the steering wheel is not straight after your adjustment, you can turn the links on each side equal amounts in the same direction to center the steering wheel without changing toe adjustment, but if you do, recheck toe after centering the steering wheel.

Hope this helps.