Quote:
Originally Posted by KJZ78701
Why don't you test what you have before you buy new?
Remove the fuel distributor from the base with the injectors still connected but removed from the intake. Put a plastic bottle over each injector and you can then test static for drips, idle flow and anywhere between idle and WOT by pushing the plunger. You can check patterns then as well.
When done, weigh the bottles and see if you have matched flow.
EDIT:
I should note that mine has the same mileage as yours. I ordered four injectors from my vendor (only had four) after I checked mine and didn't like the difference in flow volume on my test stand. After I did the bottle flow test and adjusted the distributor a bit they all matched. Since the patterns were okay (same as a new one), I returned the four new injectors.
A few years ago I installed new injectors on another CIS car because I thought it made sense and it ran horribly. It sat until I learned enough about how to calibrate for the new / different flow rates.
If you pull the old ones at least number them for possible future use / reference.
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OK you've got my attention. I did a search and could find any answers to questions that came up after reading your reply.
Like mine, 150K+ on original injectors on my 1990 300E (my 1992 300E got new injectors with its new rebuilt head and head gasket). I'm thinking that since my son drives it, I should just go ahead and change the injectors with new ones to eliminate one more reason for Dad to get a call about a car broken down at the side of the road. I've also already gone ahead and replaced the EHA valve and O rings for that very reason. We also only use Chevron 91 in our cars.
1. How do you test new injectors?
2. Please give more detail on how this is done outside the car.
3. What do you mean by a "static" test?
4. Why continue to use injectors that are over 150K miles old?
thanks,
Al