Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schroader
Finally we are on a subject that I actually am competent in. Another reason that the amps might be dropping (besides those mentioned) is the resistive co-efficient to temperature. Many heat elements (most) change resistance as the temperature changes. Some have a positive co-efficient -- resistance rises with temp and some have a negative co-efficient -- resistance drops with temps. This can easily be seen by measuring the resistance of an incandescent (quartz - for exampe) light. Using ohm's law and a cold resistance reading would not give anywhere near the amp draw that an ammeter would indicate. That's because the ammeter only measures the current as it flows (hence the filament is hot). Also ---- clamp type ammeters work well with AC; they barely function at all, and are wildly erratic, on DC. An in line ammeter with a healthy shunt is far more accurate than a clamp type.
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So youre saying that a fluke 336, a professional instrument designed to measure up to 600A DC as one of the basic functions that it is sold for is going to be giving a faulty reading? I highly doubt it.
I dont deny that it could be done more accurately, but even being 10A in 100 off is close enough to get a baseline for what draw truly is, and then to see if a GP is not working in the future...