UPDATE:
With valve cover removed, I confirmed it IS the head gasket. The gallery plug is dry.
Well....another hour and the head will be off.
This time around it seems possible to leave the belt tensioner, radiator, fan clutch completely alone!!
Stopped for lunch break then the chain sprocket is removed and head is up up and away!
Does that ignition rotor look a little worn? It has about 25k on it...