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yup, access is from the top. some on this forum have said that they can unscrew the canister by hand. i don't have that kind of grip, besides, on top of the canister, mine says to tighten to 28 NM.
the wrench looks like this - costs about $15 (steep but it'll last a lifetime). you may find an aftermarket one that fits but i didn't.
and BTW do a search on "topsider" & "oil change". even the manual indicates that oil is changed that way (via suction through dipstick).
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