Its down there in the neighborhood of to the front of the driver wheel well. It is under a plastic cover. Rarely if ever blows but is always something to take a peek at when troubleshooting. I guess 'fusable link' is probably what it's real name is.
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First thing to realize is that as long as you have some gap the motor will start & run
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Gotcha. It of course runs and runs normally after a minute or so. It is the hard starting that is the issue.
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It will have a rattle if they are too loose.
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Actually sounds decent idling after starting. No erratic hammer hitting metal kind of sounds. Pretty steady clicks
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Pull the GP's & test them properly by watching them heat up. Its the ONLY way to test to see if they are good. If you reconect them while they are out & turn the ignition on you can see if the GP relay etc is good.
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Will do. Some of the symptoms def. are consistent with a glow plug issue.
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You may have disconnected something on the IP when you took the valve cover off.
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This is what I thought. It is what would make the most sense. I was hoping someone would suggest a part ala "
same thing happened to me when I did my valves, the xxxx got dis-connected"
I am going to go back for another look at the arms that go down between the pump and the engine to see if any of those little hip joint style sockets is undone on the bottom end.
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I think that I have just found the problem.
You probably have stuck rings.
Maybe another case of "Death in a Jug
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It still runs normally. Just no power increase after the valve job and has a hard time starting after the valve job.
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Yep, just a couple quick turns back an forth to be sure the valve is seated.
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Part that is called the "collar" right?
Plan for tomorrow.
Re-inspect all linkages and hoses.
Pull GP's and verify that each is heating. If they are then on to valves again.
Wiggle the collar before checking and setting each valve.
Set valves with the cam pointing straight up at 12 o'clock and not at 1 o'clock.