Update.
Power to all plugs.
Furthest back plug would not glow when pulled out and hooked to jumper cables. I replaced it with one that I just pulled out of one of the middle cylinders for testing. I may have broken it when installing it in the back cylinder though. The top part of the body with the electric threads can spin around when you are trying to tighten the nut.
Have only been able to check one other plug. The one in the center which was fine. Went to pull the one furthest to the front and it is suffering the same fate of having the top part of the body is spinning and not allowing me to take the nut off.
I did find one thing unplugged. It was a single wire electrical plug that goes into the main body of the engine in the neighborhood of the middle glow plug.
Went to start and it did start but not convincingly strongly despite it being 48f and only 35f last night.
I am going to keep digging into more plugs but am probably going to have to just start it up and go about my errands shortly and any valve re-checking would have to be tomorrow.
I may try to shop for a battery. Could be a factor. 590 amps when tested on the car at Advance Auto. Any thoughts on that?
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Check the fuel shutoff lever bracket that it is not flipped in the wrong position when you put the valve cover on
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Been there done that before. Fortunately didn't have everything bolted down before I realized.
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Is the hose on top of the air filter the way it should be
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the vapor recovery hose? Its fine.
All of the EGR related hoses mysteriously vanished long ago.
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A slight drag is good, you can go up .001", and if it does not slide in, you know that you are not over.
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Sweet tip. Thanks.
Edit: another update.
After starting the yellow dash light between the brake and battery light lights up. That is usually the brake wear indicator light but I could def. see the wires having been switched somewhere along the way.
Battery reads
12.43v engine off
14.5v idle