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Old 02-13-2011, 03:03 AM
BimmerBenz BimmerBenz is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Abbotsford, BC
Posts: 61
If you have a clutch fan that is your culprit. If you do have a clutch fan let me know and I can give instruction on how to test it. Basically the fan should only move 45 degrees or 1/4 turn if you check immediately after shutting off a hot engine. This is not 100% though.
If you do have a clutch fan I can tell you with 90% certainty the clutch has failed and replacement will solve your issue.

If the fan spins relatively freely by hand when the engine is cold you have a clutch fan. If the fan blades do not move when you try to spin it you have direct drive.

If you have a direct drive fan have you removed the rad/fan shroud?

EDIT: Reading is apparently not my strong suit.
I see you have a clutch.
Heat the engine to operating temperature. As the temperature gauge moves across 1/2 on the gauge listen closely to the fan. It should make a very distinctive transition to engaging and blowing air. If your temperature gets to 60% gently force a rolled up newspaper into the fan blades. You should NOT be able to stop the fan; it should shred the newspapers. If you can stop the fan the clutch is bad.
Clutches MUST be stored in a warm environment in the nut down position for at LEAST 24 hours before installing.

To test head gasket:
Cold engine, open hood.
Start engine then grasp the upper rad hose. It should be 'squishy'. Keep squeezing it. It should remain soft for 10 minutes of testing and actually at least until the operating temperature hits 50% on the gauge. If the hose gets hard in under 10 minutes you have a HG issue.
Open the expansion tank/overflow bottle. Fill it to the top with coolant. Start the engine. There should be no bubbles and no odour of diesel fumes.
There should be no white 'cream' or residue on the oil cap or on the dipstick.
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Last edited by BimmerBenz; 02-13-2011 at 03:15 AM.
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