John:

There should be a mark on the pitman arm and on the shaft to facilitate centering. I doubt you are too far off.

Engine mounts are easy, if rather dear -- I did mine in the drive, took quite a while as they were SO flat I had to jack the engine up to get the top bolt out! You will need to remove the engine shocks, and will probably need to replace them at the same time -- one of mine was collapsed and stuck, the other empty of oil and non-functional. The replacements were slightly different -- upper bolt is longer, you need to add an extra rubber buffer and enlarge the hole in the steel covers a bit. The original replacement is still available, but hard to get and at least twice the cost.

There are two small (6mm I think) hex socket bolts that hold the engine mounts in -- remove center bolt (19 mm -- usually not too tight) while supporting engine. Remove the two small screws , slide mount out, jack the engine up some more, then some more (mine was at least an inch and a half low!), slide new mount in, re-install small bolts, re-install heat shield and large bolt, tighten up. I had to lever the engine over to the right to install the left mount -- I did that one second.

Clearance will be tight with the radiator in (mine was out for service), but you should be OK. You might be able to get to the left one more easily from underneath if you have a lift, I don't. Right side from the top only.

I did the tranny mount, too. Idles much more smoothly, and without the thumping now!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!