Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite
B. The Hydraulic Tensioner Should be VERY Stiff to operate by Hand.
[When removed]Otherwise it's in need of replacement.
[A New(Or DRY) Tensioner Should be Immersed in Clean container of FRESH
Motor Oil and whilst immersed "Operated" to fill it with oil.]
If you can get Whatever "IT" is to CLACK whilst stationary:
1.Motor or Transmission mounts(Specific Height Tests for the Motor Mounts)
[Tight Bolts, Means Bupkis]
2.Timing Chain Apparatus
3.The aforementioned (And Accursed) Serpentine Belt Tension-ing System.
Do Not Discount the Injectors!
Harbor Freight:Inexpensive Mechanic's Stethoscope...Invaluable!
"Fan clutch – 25K miles on it and uggh, has bearing play, but not source of noise I think."
(Suspicious!)
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I was not aware that an injector could cause this kind of noise. Sounds like a metal rap-rap.
I still have my old fan clutch, I could reinstall that to see if the noise goes away.
Can I remove the tensioner w/o any problems occurring to the guides?
But first, I want to eliminate the cam chain as the problem. What is the best procedure to do this? OR- maybe the tensioner should be checked first?
Does cam chain noise occur only at a narrow RPM band like I am hearing?
I need to find the test heights for the motor/transmission mounts.
Thanks.