Quote:
Originally Posted by mgburg
Don: There should be a(n) "Emergency Break-away" on the t-bar attached to the drive and the door. Break that open and the door should be able to be moved manually. Break the drive/door apart and SEE if you need a lot of energy to open/close the door.
If you do, then something on the door is misaligned or the carrier-spring is un-sprung (the item that assists the user to raise and lower 200-300 #s of wood).
If the door is working fine, then have a licensed/bonded electrician come out and check to see what's wrong with the circuit that's powering the door.
A garage-door quicky-fix is not worth the house it could burn down.  |
x2
This is the way to proceed.
Determine if there is a mechanical bind. If not then it is electrical.
Determine if it is in the house wiring or the door unit. Unplug/disconnect the opener and energize the opener. Does the breaker trip? Then run an extension cord and connect the opener to a different circuit? etc.
You should be able to very quickly isolate the problem.
I know everyone knows this but I must say, "Be careful with the 110/220 in the house wiring. You don't want to make a mistake."