I know it's been a while. Car has exceded my expectations. For $500 it has been great. Had no problems with it. Got the a/c working, did some body work on it, fixed the oil leaks. Cat has been deleted. Cleaned the carbon from the egr system out of the manifold, deleted egr including the throttle plate. Replaced fuel bypass valve.

Haven't run WVO for a while, no longer free, therefore no longer worth it in my opinion. I due however score the occasional batch of contaminated diesel that I mix according to level of contamination with fresh diesel. Right now I am running 25% used engine oil. A rig came in with 20 gallons of fuel in the 20 gallons of oil already in the pan. Mixed it to 25% oil with fresh diesel. Still no smoke. I filter it through a filter setup I scored off a scrap Mack engine, primary and secondary filters. The filters are free too! I grab used ones from the bin and bring them back when they plug up.

Back to the thread:

Im thinking it could stand a little more fuel. All the write ups about the ip's are for turbo applications. I don't know how much is directly applicable to the na pumps. There is little or no smoke under load so it is not at the point of overfuelling, and with no egr, there is more oxygen available so should be able to get some more fuel in without much trouble. I wonder how much fuel is available at the pump to give? How much return is there at full load? Could it may be maxed already? I changed my bypass valve (fuel pressure regulator on the return line @ the pump) with a brand new bosch one ($30 cash from my local diesel shop) so as long as the fuel pump is ok I should have some fuel available.

I need to find out what I can swap out easilly, say delivery valves, to get some of the missing fuel back that was held off due to the egr.

I have looked at full throttle propane, but want to stay with diesel if possible. My crankcase breather splits five ways, entering each intake runner just ahead of the intake valves. I was thinking I could plumb the propane into these ports and vent the crank to atmosphere. It would just be a set regulator, through trial and error, being careful not to hydraulic lock the engine! Activating at WOT only.

I'm really hoping someone will pipe up and say something like "grab these off this pump, will give you 10 more poneys"

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1982 300sd, new project car to restore

It doesn't matter if you know what you're doing, as long as you look like you know what you're doing.