Quote:
Originally Posted by 400Eric
If I was you I would "flash" the converter. You just sit there with one foot on the brake pedal and one foot on the gas pedal, but you do NOT give it any gas, you just let it idle with your foot sitting there on the pedal. On the last amber, you nail the gas pedal as hard and as fast as you can. This allows the engine to rush up to the converter's stall speed with some momentum behind it. This technique is also my favorite on the street as you are not announcing your intentions to your opponent, giving you yet another edge when the light turns green. Even if your opponent does know what your intentions are, the fact that you are not "power braking" lulls him/her into thinking that they "have this in the bag" because it gives them the impression that you do not know what you are doing. Yet another advantage to this technique is you are not needlessly heating up the trans, trans fluid, and engine. This is a video of what my 400E performs like when I employ this technique: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7QYOa0xzW8
Regards, Eric |
Eric
Almost agree with you...
Try preloading the drivetrain to about stall speed of the convertor ( 1300-1500RPM ).
This takes the slack out of the drive train, limits shock and negates the time, if even minimal, for the converter to hook up at stall speed and allow power instantly to the transmission.
This is why automatic drag cars use high stall speed converters which allow a higher pre load that gets the engine more into the power band.
When I ran a max performance light weight Dodge Hemi ( SS/AA ) in the sixties we used a nine inch Ford Cortina converter which raised the stall speed to 4500 rpm.
Ed A.