Quote:
Originally Posted by glenmore
If you are not able to break the top mount bolt then this method will work too. The four bolts on each engine mount bracket are reasonably accessible. Flex sockets are helpful.
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Flex sockets for the 13mm bolts? My 17mm top bolts are clean, dry, and gray -- no trace of rust -- but I will at least try to loosen them while still on the car since, if they are seized, it will be harder for me to remove them when off the car.
After reading some more threads, and also seeing the below recommendations, I will definitely remove the brackets entirely:
Quote:
Arthur Dalton
The driver side is a piece of cake if you take the mount bracket off the engine block as a unit with the mount still attached....
Ferdman
Replaced the engine mounts on our 1995 E320 recently. It's a relatively simple DIY job if you have a floor jack and ramps/jack stands, or access to a lift. A quick summary follows:
1. Raise car high enough that you can work under it comfortably.
2. Remove both engine mount to cross member 17mm bolts.
3. Jack under the oil pan to raise the engine mounts clear of the cross member. (Place a short length of 2 x 6 under the rear of the oil pan.)
4. Remove the four 13mm engine mount bracket bolts on each side and remove the engine mount/bracket assembly.
5. Replace the engine mount on each assembly (a 17mm bolt secures the engine mount to the bracket) and reinstall the engine mount/bracket assembly on each side.
6. Lower the engine so the engine mounts contact the cross member and reinstall the 17mm bolts. A drift pin may be needed to align the bolt hole with the cross member hole.
7. Lower the car to the floor.
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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite
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Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black
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