You know, I though they just sat between the skin and pad too, but NOT. I did clean the leather and applied a heavy dose of lanolin to further soften the soft leather.

I have completed two pleats since last post. With experience comes a little (very little) speed. I decided to stop because it was getting a little tough to see them little holes, even in the bright overheads I have in the garage.

Couple tips for those inclined to do this type of install

Use quality upholstery thread, in a close color match (for the tan leather I'm using taupe - pretty close). A heavy needle, but not so heavy it stratches out the prior needle holes, a #6 tapestry needle is about right. A chain stitch woks great in this type repair, starting from the inside to out, loop back to the next hole and start working through the muslin. Come back out the first hole, skip the next (the one you went in from the outside) and go in the first "empty" hole. Loop back through the muslin and come out the first entry hole, repeat until at the end of the pleat (I didn't know what it was called, I explain to wifey and sheadvised it's a chain stitch).

The big tip here is to keep the muslin backing taut. The tautness of the backing is what gives the pleat their slight billow. If you don't keep the backing tight, the pleats will be deflated and wrinkled. If you haven't started stitching yet Mark, keep this in mind. I find that using small woodworking quick clamps helps to hold things in place. I'm using one to keep the finger of the heater I'm working on in the pleat and another to hold the muslin tight in some gathered leather.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.