The best access is from below rather than from above where the fan is in the way, you also get a wider swing of the tool you're turning with from below because the crank centerline is lower. On an SDL if your lucky you need to remove the sound encapsulation panel, four 8mm screws. Then a 27mm/1 1/16" deep socket and a flex head 1/2" drive rachet turning the engine clock-wise shold make it pretty easy. With the starter already removed you really ought to be able to pretty easily use a pry bar and lever the ring gear around, you'll probably only move it about 10 teeth at a time and it will take a while but mark the first section you check with a magic marker and then just keep turning it until you're back where you started. With that method although it may seem to be more tedious at least you get to do it standing up rather than on your back underneath the car! Good luck!

Oh Yeah, with regard to what Larry mentioned wire the IP STOP lever down to prevent it from gettting any fuel and starting to pop off a cylinder or two as you turn the crank.