Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848
Having actually measured the W124 blower motor current, I can finally add something to this overly-long thread. The "porcupine" speed controller takes a signal from the push-button unit (PBU) and limits the current to the blower motor based on that signal. The motor current varies from 5 Amps to 28 Amps. The controller, which appears to be a Darlington pair of power transistors living on a big heat sink (the "porcupine"), acts as a variable resistor under control of the PBU, limiting the current drawn by the blower motor.
I've never been able to solder aluminum and am surprised the OP was successful -- but I guess the results speak for themselves. In any case, the rating of the repaired fuse would be no more than 30A so it should be OK until a new replacement is found. As was previously mentioned, I've also had trouble with aluminum strip fuses oxidizing, so I use a little of the paste that electricians use when joining copper and aluminum conductors.
Jeremy
|
It is not that hard. Wouldnt bother with a fuse though.
Some time try it.
You need to clean the Al with a scotchbrite, not steel wool.
a good coat of Vaseline & use it as a shield. It smells & smokes a bit but it works & is quite strong. You get good electrical connection.
Many fuses are copper with a very thin silver or tin coating.
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group
I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....
1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles 
1987 250td 160k miles English import 
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
|