I don't think there is anything special about the MB green grease, other than it is likely a high quality grease. Any high quality, heat resistant Grade 2 grease with EP additives should suffice in this application. I doubt there is anything special about the bearing design that would set it apart from other manufacturers and require a special grease.

It's true that bearing designers try to make the grease flow within a bearing.

Your rear bearings are the sealed cartridge type. They are not serviceable. They are replaced when they go bad. If you try to service them, you'll likely destroy the seal and won't find replacements.

Keep in mind that the number one reason for bearing failure is usually faulty installation. If you disturb the front bearings, and they fail shortly afterward, then you probably did something wrong. Rarely is it the fault of the grease. You'd be surprised how little grease is needed to keep a bearing lubed, and how little difference the quality of the grease has on bearing performance.

From my warranty duties, I find the number two reason for autumotive wheel bearing failure is water making its way past the seals. If the seal (or seal wear track) is worn from high mileage, nicked, disturbed, or in any way less than perfect, you can be guaranteed of bearing failure. This is why flood cars often fail all four bearings within a year of being put back in service.

When you say you'll be cleaning the seal seat, I hope you mean the static part (called the "anchor") and not the seal lip contact point. Cleaning the seal lip contact path can put the wrong angle in the grind lines resulting in water being pumped into the bearing. The green or blue paint on the seal body is designed to help seal the anchor surfaces of the bearing.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K