Well, i replaced the MAF because when i was cleaning it, ive put in a q-tip to clean the surface of the sensor inside but I managed to break it (cotton ball got stuck, and my dumbass decided to pull on it instead of backing it up -_-, $180 mistake...
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As for IAT, the car dint come with one, because the last owner managed to break the sensor itself when he was taking it off for some reason...
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Check Victor's web site for details on ETAs here including re-wiring and testing
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I actually did see his videos on youtube and I went off to see if the wiring inside the ETA was bad... turn out to be good, then i tested the ETA. He posted up the video for SL500, which i believe has ASR because one of the switches has an open when throttle is closed, and other switch is closed when throttle closed... its not the same on my wiring schematic for non-ASR, because both switches appear to be closed when throttle is closed (as you see in my 1st post)
The only "bad" part of ETA is switch 1 (S1 on diagram). Im getting like ~14000 ohms when it is either WOT or closed. The other ETA that i bought used from internet has the same problem but less ohms ~1250 ohms or so... I would really like to verify good unit from someone that has a good ETA and compare my results to there's.
Thanks guys! I really am thankful for your replies!
