Overall, the purpose of this was to expose the channels without the key in order to use the wire removal tool. I noticed that the “hat” was not cast as part of the tumbler assembly, but rather a separate piece held on by a single pin at 9:00 (12:00 is keyslot vertical). The Internets have said that this can be broken by placing a wide screwdriver into just the front 8mm of the keyway and forcefully turning quickly. I didn’t want to break any more than I had to, so I used my carbide cutter on the Dremel and simply ground at the 9:00 position where the hat “brim” met the rest, just inside the collar of the sleeve. It only took about 5 minutes, minimal coaxing with that thick screwdriver and once severed, the hat would turn freely around inside the sleeve, bypassing the cylinder. In this way, I didn’t need the key to open up the tool ports.

Thinking I was done, I tried for a good hour to make my wire tools work. According to my Haynes, it should be a prong of 2mm wire, with 60° angles cut into the inside edges of each of the arms. The idea is to insert the arms, get under the single retaining clip (behind the 2:00 hole), and simultaneously press the release button at the bottom of each channel that holds to sleeve in. This did not happen. Perhaps I was just impatient, but I also heard from the Internets that the key being in position 1 was necessary to free it. I tried two thickness wires and filed different bevels into the tools, but nothing worked. So I changed plans. NOTE: When grinding the hatpin out, I eventually went too far and hit the cylinder on the other side. I think this fugged up the key way, and from there on out, my key wouldn’t fit anymore. This is why I had to keep adding more destruction to the mix. If you’re careful, you may not have to do all the rest. Maybe.