Next step, getting the cylinder to turn. So I drilled out the tumblers. This was surprisingly easy. I think this is due to not having the hat in place. The lock internals are mostly pot metal and brass, and was cake compared to the previous work. I started with a bit just a tad wider than the key way, and gradually increased diameters. I used my new key and cylinder from the Dealer as a depth guide, placing a ring of masking tape around the bits to mark where I should stop at the end of the tumblers. Again, use newspaper and towels (and of course safety glasses) to stop the shrapnel from hurting you or your ride. This took a bit more time, as I was careful. Once clear of the tumblers, I had access to the back of the keyway, and could actually turn my car on and start it with a screwdriver (yaaay). At least now I could get power to my windows to roll them down and get some breeze.
Again, I’m not sure if any of this was necessary, but once the cylinder was drilled, I had an easy time of it. I clicked the screwdriver to 1, placed in my wire tool and the cylinder pulled right out with little effort on the needlenose. Once out, I had a much better view of the sleeve internals, and had better access to the tabs holding it in. I would up using two separate wires to hit the tabs at the rear, pulling them outward slightly. This is hard to describe, but it really apparent once the cylinder is out. The sleeve nearly fell right off once the tabs were flipped. NOTE: Contrary to what I’ve read, the sleeve was not screwed on in any way, it was pressed-fit and held in just with the clips at the rear. Once I decided to cut into the collar, I found a replacement here at Pelican for $20.

The rest is easy, insert key in new cylinder, place into sleeve, click all into car. Make sure key is in position 1 to return and the column internals are where they should be.