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Originally Posted by MBeige
When you pushed back the pistons to install the new pads, there may have some bubbles formed. How's the "bite"? Do the Akebonos bite strong?
I noticed with my Akebonos (w123) that I can't stomp on the pedal hard enough to generate brake lock when performed on an isolated road. The OE pads I replaced were ATE, but the rotors were warped so I put in new ATE rotors too.
You can always perform the brake bleeding to be on the safe side, and if the mushy feel does not go away, it can be attributable to either the rotors, pads or the combination.
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When I did the brake bedding I couldn't get my ABS to kick-in. The bit seemed pretty good.
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Originally Posted by Gilly
No fluid leaked out when you pushed back the pistons? Only suggestion I can have at thia point is bleed the brakes. After making sure all the clips are where they belong.
You should have used the paste, try that to cure the squeal.
Unless the spongey feeling and squeal are related, look over the squealer really good as an out of place spring clip will also give a spongey feel, and probably squeal a bit too.
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Nope no fluid leaked out. My reservoir is still nice and full. The brakes seemed better today actually. Less pedal travel for full stoppage. I think they're getting better. I do a lot of freeway driving so the 400-500 mile requirement might not really apply as I don't use the brakes nearly as often as one would if that 4-500 miles was all city.
None of the other brakes are squealing just the rear passenger. When I put the inner pad in the shim plate came off..I think that might have something to do with it. So I think tonight when I get home, I'll pop off that wheel and use the paste on those pads. Does the paste go between piston->pad or between shim->pad? Or should I do both?
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Originally Posted by Air&Road
Since the fluid flush is due anyway, go ahead and completely bleed and flush the brakes. It won't cost but about five bucks for a quart of fluid. Start by emptying the reservoir and filling it with fresh fluid, then use the whole quart and make sure you get all air out.
If the pedal feels mushy while the vehicle is stopped, it's not the pads. Even if it feels mushy when stopping, since the flush is due, just knock it out and then you know for sure the hydraulics are not the problem.
Hope this helps.
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I agree, I think I've got a fresh quart of ATE Type200 Blue or Gold (Can't remember) still in its air-tight bag. So I'll probably toss that into the bleeder and go at it. Its due just about anyway. Like I said previously the brakes felt much better today than yesterday. Yesterday there seemed to be a lot more travel than today. I think this post must have scared them.
Another thing:
When we were changing the rear brakes, we noticed that the passenger rear parking brake was dragging on the rotor something awful. The one parking brake pad was worn pretty good and the other had heat cracks all throughout it. I've not used the parking brake since I've purchased the car (2006) so I just removed the pads and put all the important bits in a plastic baggy. I thought that with new rotors and a non-dragging rear brake that my fuel economy would increase (logically, no?) but that doesn't seem to be the case...