I would check the distributor cap first. Cold Start valve is hardly EVER the issue on these and the OVP deal typically doesn't cure anything (I replaced mine and fzzzzt...nothing different). Take it out your OVP and try to run it. That is what it would run like if it was bad unless it does have a thermal issue or cold solder but just buy a new one vs. wasting your time with that. I wouldn't chase that gremlin yet. 1000 rpm when you first start cold. Idle should be around 600-700 RPM after closed loop cycle stops. It sounds like a vacuum issue. I had all of that idling problem, adjusted the air mixture, and threw lots of money at it. New vacuum lines and idle air valve hoses finally eliminated the problem. Hard starts are typically distributor cap (and mine looked fine when I first checked it). The idle would get rough when car got hot because the hose cracks would open up more as the engine got hot. To start check the neck of the hose that goes into the front of the idle air valve and see if it isn't hard and cracked where it fits on. Put some electrical tape around it and see if it helps.