Quote:
Originally Posted by timm9
Smiffy,
Thank you very much for the response.
I do have a mity vac and there are no vaccum leaks at this point. I should have also noted that all injectors were removed, cleaned (although I was told they didn't need it) and the rubber seals were replaced when the injectors were reinstalled. The car has plenty of power and runs quite well as long as its not at idle.
I suspect that the 'intermittent' issue is with the ICV and the loose piece of plastic but did not want to damage it if it could be avoided. In my searches I had noticed several posts where someone was referencing an attempt at rebuilding the ICV. Is that possible?
Thank you again!
Tim
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The vacuum gauge can test for way more than just vacuum leaks; it's useful to help rule out various issues on the way to a good diagnosis.
Diagnosing/troubleshooting As mentioned, a lot of different faults can be found with a vacuum gauge, because the behavior of the needle is different from one fault to another. Here are the seven most common scenarios (engine idling and warm):
1. Steady needle, at 15-22 inHg: Engine in good condition. (An engine with long-duration camshaft will have a lower vacuum and a less steady needle, maybe 10-15 inHg with a few “jerks”. That’s still an engine in good condition)
2. Steady needle, lower than normal: Ignition timing too late or vacuum leak
3. Steady needle like in 1. but occasionally fluctuates at idle: Ignition miss or sticking valve
4. Steady needle like in 1. but drops regularly: Valves need adjustment or burnt valve
5. Floating needle, maybe in the range of 10-20 inHg: Carb out of adjustment or vacuum leakage
6. Shaking needle, becomes worse as rpm increases: Ignition miss, blown head gasket
7. Shaking needle, becomes steady as rpm increases: Worn valve guides
I know you are interested in figuring out how to repair the ICV, but I'm not familiar with that item. I just mentioned the vacuum concept as something useful to help pinpoint engine problems.