The video i was suppose to post:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMy85VRe7IU

So, the next day I had the vehicle towed home. I didnt have much time to work on it until recently.

I noticed there was a strong fuel smell when ever it stalled so to me it sounded like it was flooding out. I removed the fuel injectors and dipped them in Redline fuel injector cleaner for a while and put them back in. To my suprize the vehicle ran great for about 10 minutes and then went to crap again. I thought maybe the injectors were sticking so i replaced them and their rubber holders. No affect.

So, so far replaced (because they are maintenance items
-spark plugs
-distributor cap
-distributor rotor
-spark plug wires
-injectors

(o2 sensor and fuel filter were replaced a year ago)


So now I actually started testing individual parts:

- Over voltage protection relay (OVP) seems to be working properly, fuse is good, opened it up and did not find any corrosion or cracked boards or solder points.

-Fuel pump is coming on, coming up to pressure and turning off until I crank the engine. (So I assume this eliminates the fuel pump relay?)

-Fuel pressure seems good. I only have 1 fuel pressure gauge so cant taking a differential reading, but the lower chamber seemed to be a few PSI lower at idle.

-Fuel filter (fuel screen) at fuel distributor is clear.

-Air/fuel mixture duty cycle is at around 50 and does go up and down properly (o2 sensor is working)

- Idle air control valve (IACV) is getting a signal, current is within spec, resistance is correct on it, it does function if I apply 12v to it.

-Cold start valve (CSV) does open and has a nice spray if I apply 12v, but I do not see a signal going to it to open when then engine is stone cold.

-Fuel accumulator is working as the air metering flap has resistance after sitting for a few hours, also if I crack one of the fittings fuel squirts out. (fuel distributor stays pressurized)

-Fuel pressure regulator (on front of fuel distributor) seems to be working? Diaphram doesnt seem to be torn as there is no fuel coming out if the vent tube.

-Electronic hydraulic actuator (EHA) isnt leaking fuel, and has the proper resistance (19.5ohm if remember correctly), and from the information I can find online, has the correct current fluctuations but im not 100% sure on this. (Should be around 0mA fluctuating up and down ?)

-Air flow potentiometer I did not test yet other than it shows full open when doing the air/fuel mixture test.

-Coolant temp sensor (for ECU) tested and showed proper resistance.

-Crank Position sensor I tested and showed proper resistance. (just incase)

-I did find a crack in the hose going from the engine to the idle air control valve (where the cold start valve sits), and replaced it.

-I made sure every electrical connector to all the sensors and actuators were corrosion free.

-Non of the pins at the ECU look damaged, bent, or corroded.

So now during all this testing it was running and idling fine, still had its hesitation like before. It was maybe a little harder to start then usual quite a bit of cranking (probably because of that cold start valve not getting a signal?) The last thing I did was replace the hose to the IACV, took off the EHA (to have a look at it), and cleaned out the fuel screen and now it wont start, at all. It cranks and cranks and cranks. (Im getting frustrated) So I cracked the fuel lines a the injectors, and cranked. There is no fuel pressure at the injectors now. Hooked up the gauge to the distributor and I have pressure from the pump there, but its not being distributed to the injectors. So what does that mean?