California Smog and OVP
Hi there all,
Much appreciate all the extensive knowledge on the site. I have been sucking it up like a sponge.
I just recently came into the posession of a '92 300E (124.030) which I think is grey market (VIN: WDBEA30D6NB691603), which required that I take it to a smog shop, who proceeded to tell me it was a GROSS POLLUTER, entirely due to excessive hydrocarbon emissions, especially at idle (560 vs 120 max allowable).
It did have a few idiot lights: coolant level, washer fluid level, ABS, and SRS all lit. Thanks to this site, I was able to identify the cold start and ABS light as being OVP related. Yep, the fuse was burned out. Replaced. Starts really easily now - within 3 seconds - instead of 15. Also thanks to the site, the resultant fast idle (1300-1500) after replacing that fuse was identified as a vacuum leak, which I think I've fixed for the most part (though idle is still a little high right around 1000 - I'm still looking for more obvious hose problems).
Of further note, also thanks to this site, I built myself a code reader. Pin 3 has no codes to report, which if I understand it correctly, would be the one I should be concerned with for passing the smog certification. (Pin 6 reported 2 & 3, and pin 14 reported 4, 6, & 11, which I'll inquire about in a separate thread.)
My question is, could the blown OVP relay fuse cause the excessive hydrocarbon emissions recorded previously? Should I take it and get it tested again? I'd rather not throw money away if it wouldn't change the result. Though the car has about a quarter million miles clocked on it, it is running smooth as a baby's bottom.
PS: also thanks to this site: I identified coolant level being sensor/switch issue: fixed. Washer fluid, just unplugged the connector so now no light. I do try using the search engine first.
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-Michael.
New owner of a 1992 300E (124.030)
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