Quote:
Originally Posted by djburt
I did notice a weird sound coming from somewhere seemingly down below the power steering pump, and I also noticed that the difficulty of rotating the engine was not consistent - some times it would make that noise and be really hard to turn, other times it was almost effortless.
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The noise is air compressing and escaping. When you are turning the engine, sometimes you are compressing air (difficult) and sometimes you are not (easy).
Quote:
Originally Posted by djburt
12:30 After a brief lunch, continued...on about valve 6 of 10. Consistent problem - After I would set the top nut for the proper clearance, hold it still while tightening the bottom nut, almost always when I double checked it it would be too tight even though I didn't move that top nut. So I started having to set it too loose so that when I tightened it would be correct.
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When you tighten the lock nut, you push the adjusting top nut upwards in the thread, making the valve clearance smaller. So when you adjust the top nut, put it slightly wider before tightening the lock nut, just as you did.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djburt
4:00 Cranked it. Realized my fuel lines had been emptied, so primed it (newly replaced new black manual primer) about twenty pushes, finally cranked up. TERRIBLE idle, much shakier than before, more white smoke from tailpipe that didn't go away, and an alarming amount of smoke when I open the oil cap. (Excuse the awful belt squealing on the video, the two drive belts that are beside each other and identical are old and worn and need to be replaced badly. Already have the belts, just need to learn how to replace...but it's not the core issue I don't think cause it was like this before the valve adjustment). Twice after giving it throttle and then releasing, it shut off like in the second video.
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After the hard injector lines have been emptied, it can take a little longer to start, or the engine will start and stop soon. You can crack open the hard injector lines, but it is not really needed. After starting, run the engine at a fast idle so that the lift pump can pump all the air out of the system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djburt
As far as the third wrench and the spring turning, I did notice occasionally that the spring would turn ever so slightly even if I was trying to work the other wrenches properly. Maybe that was why it took me two or three times to get the clearance right after tightening. I even turned one intentionally a couple of times (not more than 10 or 15 degrees) so I could get the wrench on. Have I potentially done damage there by turning those springs (again, only very slightly, but...)?
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The spring should turn my means of the rotocap which is found underneath the spring. Everytime the valve opens and closes, the rotocaps turns the valve a bit, so that the valve and valve seat wear evenly. After many miles, the rotocaps can stop working, so that the valve doesn't rotate anymore. This can result in uneven wear of the valves and valve seats. If you turn the valve, for instance during valve adjustment, it can happen that the valve doesn't close anymore, because of the uneven wear. That is one of the reasons for using the third wrench.