My Transmission refresh project is completed.
It shifts like no other mercedes i've ever owned. Going in reverse is 0 shake. Shifting from 1st -2nd is just unbelievable. I mean i need to observe the needle on the tachometer to realize that it actually shifts.
I think swapping the solenoids and overlap valves did the trick.
My pressure spring looked great and i only replaced it for the peace of mind. It looked and felt exactly like the new one.
I've been thinking about taking pictures as i go, but it's so simple and straight forward that pictures are really unnecessary. I think it's as easy as inspecting the crankshaft bearings. It requires attention but it's all about taking the oil pan out
I did it in my own garage on Jackstands and had good lightening
The Valve Body is a little heavy, i think about 12lbs. So if you're working under the car by yourself, you need to use the elbow to support it and remove the bolts slowly.
The other thing to mention is don't place the magnet under the filter, it will attract the filter and you'll have to reposition again.
For those that have the 2nd Gear Limp Mode, remember that you need to clear the codes in the EGS after you completed this refresh. Otherwise you'll think that your work was in vain.
I used 5.5 liters of Fluid and i'll check the level tomorrow to make sure it's fine.
Took it to the freeway and was cruising at 75mph @ ~1900rpms
Reverse or any other gear ingage is just amazing. I was so excited i took my wife for a ride
(of course she didn't get it and only complained that i didn't recycle the bottles i have in the trunk)
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
First Part - removing the valve body
1. Disconnect Battery (f*ck it, i decided to listen to the radio as i work)
2. Use a Torx tool to remove the Drain Bolt.
3. Drain the fluid. (It really doesn't matter if your engine is cold or warm, I prefer working on a cold engine)
4. Remove the Metal Cover that protects the Wiring Harness Adapter - 1 Torx Bolt (Same as the drain Bolt)
5. Unplug the Wiring Harness (Rotate the 'white' plastic clip counter clock wise and the connector will come out)
6. Remove the Harness Adapter - You need a 7mm socket to unscrew the bolt that's deep inside the adapter. You will need to replace this adapter due to the common worn seals so it will help you get an idea where the bolt is (it's impossible to see it under the car and there's a risk you'll damage the pins if you have no clue what you're looking for)
7. Remove all the bolts for the oil pan - Watch out for remainings of fluid coming out of the loose pan
8. Remove the Valve Body - Same Torx tool as the pan and drain bolt. - The volve body is not very light so use extra care when you do it. - Again, watch for fluid coming down in your eyes.
9. After you removed the Valve Body, You will place it on your work bench. And this is where the fun begins.
Second Part - refreshing the Valve Body
1. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the solenoid clips - same torx as all the other bolts (love it)
2. Remove the solenoids - just shake them back and forth and they will come out
3. Remove the Conductor Plate - there's a fe clips on the side that hold it - don't be afraid to break them, you will have to install a new conductor plate either way
4. Ater the conductor plate was removed, you'll have the bare valve body to replace the pressure spring and the overlap valves
The master overlap valve kit comes with instructions and pictures so i won't describe that
here's a pictre
The Valve Pressure Spring is under one of the metal plates that needs to come out - very easy
Remember to check the Solenoids for resistance and see if they match the specifications
It is advisable to swap the lower 2 solenoids (2-3 gear) with the upper solenoids (4-5) this way you'll have less worn solenoids where you need them the most.
Reinstalling is the reverse of the above, except you need to be careful to match the shifter lever with the plastic clip on the valve body.
I didn't have the drain bolt on the torque converter. So i filled with 5.5 liters of Fuchs Fluid.