Your "D" fuse slot (Green Circle) melted because the auxiliary fan was running non-stop. Could be the temperature sensor (Red Circle, B10/8) on the engine was not sending a proper signal and the ACC Push Button Controller (N22) defaulted to high speed fan-on, which is not via the lesser voltage resister part of the circuit.
I doubt the problem is with the refrigerant high pressure switch (Blue Circle, S32), as that circuit runs via resistor and would not as likely generate the heat necessary to melt the fuse slot as yours has.
Test the B10/8 sender and try reseating its connection. I have gotten an erroneous signal after washing the engine.
Yet another possibility is a sticking K9 (or K10) relay. With the relay removed you should have no connection between pins 1 & 3. If so, then it is bad. When you put 12 volts to pins 4 & 5 you should have connection between pins 1 & 3. If not, then it is bad.
Use a generic blade fuse holder from any auto parts store as a substitute for the damaged D slot.
