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Old 10-19-2012, 04:57 PM
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jay_bob jay_bob is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 3,941
Update

We swapped the motor mount on the right side, it's not as bad as it looks. Get the front up on stands. Support the motor using a large block of wood (we used a 2x10 about a foot long, oriented front to rear). Using a floor jack carefully position the wood on the oil pan, be careful you are totally on the flat part of the pan only. Gently raise the engine just enough to relieve tension on the mount.

Now get beneath the car and loosen and remove the Allen head bolt on the bottom of the mount. Then remove the four 13 mm bolts that hold the mounting arm to the engine block. The mount and arm should just slide out to the rear.

Now bring the arm into the light and check for cracks or damage. Mine had accident damage and a missing heat shield. Also the upper bolt was bent very badly. Fortunately MBSelect had another arm, bolt, and heat shield.

After the world's most excruciating wait for FedEx the new motor mount showed up yesterday afternoon. John and I got it quickly bolted back in and the motor lowered back on the mounts. Now the top of the cross pipe is flat to the ground.

Found out the aux pump motor was seized. Luckily the one John got from p-n-p worked.

When we filled the radiator we found it was beneficial to raise the front of the car on stands and fill from the detached upper radiator hose. We detached the heater hose at the intake manifold and poured in coolant to the upper radiator hose into the block until coolant ran out the heater hose port then hooked up the hose again. We unplugged the aux pump and jumped 12 V to the connector to help circulate the coolant into the heater core. (Pin 1 is + or the pump runs backwards)

Found out the water pump is ok, it was the water pump pulley being slightly out hitting the balancer. We used a press to push the pulley hub back square and all is well.

Took it out for a test run, it is running great.

Still need to do the following
- tweak hood alignment
- bleed brakes
- fix speedo, the gasser speedo reads low by a lot (shows 25 when doing 40 according to GPS) I swapped the Diesel speedo back in but did not get a chance to drive it. John thinks the cable or trans gear is bad but the speedo does not jump around at all, it rises smoothly. It is just seriously off.

Hoping to have it home this weekend...
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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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