I was just sitting here trying to figure out the lateral push on the hose by the maximum oil presure.

At high oil pressure such as present when engine is reving . Maybe only a 35 pound lateral pull or push equivelant on the hose is duplicated by the internal oil pressure at most I suspect. A safety wire should prevent an actual blow off.

That is the highest risk factor I would think. On reflection I cannot think of any good really effective glues that will withstand the type of temperatures present with the hot oil for long.

A compression type ring soldered on to the barb if possible would also act as a reinforcing hose retainer for a clamp that is losing its clamping pressure because of the instability of the hose material or more compression of its material over time. Under heat and stress the hose over time should also conform to the bulge as well increasing the overall retention of it.

I would want to rig up a test jig to make sure the intended hose could be slipped over the soldered on ring before proceeding. Maybe this is where the mistake is occuring as there is no enlarged portion of the barb near the end as is convention in most slide on hose terminations. Always present usualy when screw or spring compression type clamps are intended.

I have not redone any oil cooler lines on these mercedes. Anyways some form of circle soldered on or near the end of the barb in combination with a safety wire if possible to incorporate should eliminate any possibility of a blow off unless the replacement hose has almost totally rotted.. If this was the situation it would probably just rupture on the exposed portion of hose first. Without this soldered on item it would have blown off much earlier. I wonder if a compression ring as found in compression fittings might be suitable. They are sold loose.

On reflection over the years some of us at least have seen hoses blow off in situations where there is not a larger diameter area present on a barb before the clamp. Someone may come up with another well fitting metal ring that can be soldered on.

The hoses may have to be heated to slip over it or one brand of hose may prove easier to use. At least this should help get us on the right track when dealing with the replacement of the hoses on the oil coolers. It may also be of some additional help as the sae sized replacement hoses are not the same diameter as the metric barb.

The bottom line is perhaps we just missed that a hose clamp situation alone is just meant to stop leakage basically. Not a good approch to stop the lateral push by the internal oil pressure. The replacement hose is perhaps being abused in an attempt to overcome the lateral force situation by the current approaches talked about. My feeling is almost everyone would try to overclamp and this is not the intention of the manufactures of the hose to laterally secure it alone on an straight barb when under pressure. In fact a straight barb is poor engineering in this form of hose replacement application.

If any member tries this approach post what you located for a solder on type of ring. And the brand of hose used. Since some of my hoses should be replaced I will try to do this but currently have absolutly no time to work on cars currently. Just too many irons in the fire unfortunatly. I have to live with the guilt that I am taking the time to post currently and read on other days. Just do not want to drift away from this site. There is usually something interesting going on. Somewhat like an old serial radio show. Almost something for everyone in my opinion..