Quote:
Originally Posted by ruchase
Thanks for all the responses! I'm pretty sure the clutch kit is the correct one as I had ordered this from Phil (may he RIP) and he pulled the parts using my VIN. The only part I didn't get from Phil was the slave cylinder, which I just bought from the local NAPA for convenience as I needed the car to be on the road.
I am quite sure I completely bled all the air out of the clutch system, as my pedal is firm and had good feedback following the installation of the slave (I used an 80ml vet syringe hooked up to the clutch slave bleed screw to push fresh fluid up). I've used this method on other brake/clutche jobs and never had a problem.
However, I'm totally confused as to why MB has several iterations of clutch master cylinder pushrods and even from what it sounds like slave cylinders.
I think my only option now is to put in a new clutch m/c, slave & pushrod to hopefully rule these out before pulling the trans out. Unless anyone else thinks of another strategy. Thanks!
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Yah this thing with the master push rods is a puzzle. What I did was dig out my old master cylinder and push rod (I never throw things away that could be rebuilt later
) and compare them. It was obvious the one in the car was shorter and when I switched them, all was well again.
There is an "early" throwout bearing and a "late" t/o bearing. I once pulled the tranny twice before someone enlightened me to that fact, one has a slightly higher "shoulder".
How far off the floor did the pedal rise before the clutch engaged?
And free play at the other end?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug
"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"