UPDATE: rewired the eta and although i'm a noob, i will leave my 2 cents to anyone looking to do this

i would recommend going with a dremel type tool for best results. if done correctly you can even remove the pin holder and solder the new wires directly to the pins instead of soldering new wires to the old ones attached to the pins. i will also post a picture of the map of the circuit board in the actuator so if anyone is confused or mixes up a wire or 3 like i did, you can easily get around it. also using a dremel will cut the time to take the connector apart in half, literally.

another tip is to use 18, 20, & 22 gauge wire. if i remember well there are: 2x 18g, 3x 20g, & 4x 22g wire. and length would be to play it safe a 18in each wire. the wire inlet on the actuator really doesn't stretch so using one gauge of wire unless it's 22 just won't happen.

after installing the rewired eta, my car idled at 1500 and when i went on the gas it would sputter and almost die, so i knew the eta had to have been the problem since prior to, i was able to drive it, rev it, and the only issue was the shaky idle.

what happened was that got wires 8, 6 & 14 mixed with each other (long story) but it is sorted now, i even got the DTC 6(idle control inoperative) on pin 3 using the cars check light. tomorrow i will reinstall it and see how it goes & keep you guys posted. thanks everyone for the advice. it has really helped! good day and god bless, jean.