Assuming you have considerable respect for the ability of a spring to hurt you, its not a big deal. I like to advise people to use a piece of chain around the spring to contain it if something goes wrong.

The upper and lower joints are tapered fit. After loosening the nuts that hold them, a sharp rap from a good sized hammer on the female part will break it free. It goes without saying but try not to hit the threads.

With the spindle loose the shock is the only thing holding the lower arm keeping the spring in place. When breaking the upper joint taper free its good practice to keep the nut loosely on the threads. That way if the shock fails to hold the spring load the spring won't come flying out at you.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff