Once you have all of the connectors replaced you will need to test each actuator individually. Test both the lock and unlock sides of the diaphrams. You could very well have a whole bunch of small leaks contributing.

I've found, at least on the 108, that most often it is one of the upper diaphrams that is shot. Remember, the actuators, even though inside the door, are still exposed to the elements. Grit and dirt wear at the rubber, while air, heat and cold do their thing too. If you use a mighty-vac you should be able to isolate and test each side of the actuators and verify good/bad.

One other thing to check, I found on the passenger side, sometimes the down limiter gets slightly bent, allowing the bottom of the glass to make slight contact with the upper diaphram, slowly rubbing a hole in it.

If all else checks out, last place to check is the hard lines where the pass fromt the door jamb to the door. Constant opening/closing takes it's toll there as well.

Not sure what your vacuum resevoir looks like, on teh 108 mine looks like about 12 tennis balls connected. Once I removed it from the left front fender to test for leaks, it still looked factory new, but dusty. Heavy duty material that will probably never wear out.

I just looked and notice we're discussing a 108, so everything I have is pertinent. One last note, the 108's are one of the last cars to have rebuildable actuators. If you can find the rubbers you can rebuild. Rubbers cost about $6 each, complete actuator units about $50.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.