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Originally Posted by Stretch
Remove brake disc (caliper etc).
Clamp a magnetic base to the side of the trailing arm (I assume you don't have aluminium ones fitted!). If this doesn't work then get something big and heavy that won't move {tool kit?} and position it at a suitable distance from the hub so that you can...
...Position your clock gauge / DTI so that the probe will run on the surface of the hub. Turn hub by hand and watch how far that little needle spins. As it isn't a really smooth machined surface you will get some variation in needle output (?!).
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Done. Maximum variation .006 inch. What measurement constitutes "ok"?
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If the hub is OK then check to make sure that the bearing clearance is still good => pull hub towards you and away from you - in and out towards and away from the differential.
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Less than .001 inch. Too tight. It wasn't before 
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If that is OK put the disk brake back on and repeat the test above.
Alternatively you might find it easier to check run out on the end of the hub - that would be checking for out of roundness in a vertical direction instead of lateral direction.
Runout check - YouTube
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Maximum variation .010, but almost all of that appears to be from some small nicks in the surface where the dial indicator was making contact. On the smooth parts is was more like .001 inch variation.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.
83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.
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