Valve adjustment, $100. you can buy the valve adjustment wrenches for that price, and one adjustment they are paid for. or you can bend your own.
What ever the hourly shop rate is per hr, is about what it will cost you.
Here is a link to Diesel Giant`s valva adj procedure.
Mercedes Diesel Valve Adjustment Procedure
He has others,, but I was reading the one for draining the Transmission and he didn`t drain the Torque Converter, and recommended a trans flush. for get about doing that.
Servicing the trans is easy. there is a drain plug in the pan, and the Torque Converter has a drain plug. there is a sort of grate under the bell Housing, using a large screw driver through the grill you can rotate the TC around to line up the drain plug. drain the TC into a pan, and when through dripping, replace the copper washer and snug the plug down, doesn`t take much. I don`t have the inch lbs or what ever it is to torque it.
Then drain the trans pan, same thing, remove the plug. when it is through remove the 6 bolts and lower down the pan. remove the 2 phillip screws and remove the filter, and install the new filter. wash out the pan, I use brake spray cleaner to totally blow out the residue after I wash it in a pan of gas, or your favorite solvent. do not wipe it out with a rag, MB warn against this as it will leave lint.
Replace the new gasket and replace the 6 bolts/screws. tighten to the torque setting, some one will have them and post them. do not over tighten the pan or it can cause it to leak.
Then add the ATF, looking your owners manual, it should have the abount, around 6qts.
Fuel filter, remove the 24mm bolt, or loosen and unscrew the filter. don`t tip it as it is full of fuel. lower it down and remove. place it in a container to drain. refill the new one with Diesel Purge, or I use ATF. something out of a clean un opened bottle, or if you know your diesel fuel can is clean and no, dirt water etc... use it. the center bolt on your85 has 2 "O" rings for the seal. If they look flat or old etc... replace them. Auto Zone has an assortment of "O" rings in a case for $8. the size is in there.
slip the filter in place and screw the bolt into it, and tighten. you do not need a washer under the bolt head.
There is a Pre-filter down by the rear side of the Injection pump. 2 hose clamps and a phillip screw driver, and slip it off and install the new one.
The rubber fuel line is 5/16". If it looks old and cracked, good time to replace it.
Oil change is pretty straight forward. Place drain pan under engine, remove drain plug, and let drain for and hr or over night or______ fill in blanks. remove the 2 13mm nuts on top of filter housing, lift out lid, remove rubber "O" ring. wipe the out the groove where the "O" ring lives and replace it with the new one from the filter box. lift out old filter, have a small pan to stick under filter as it is lifted out. wipe off the top edge of the filter housing. insert new filter and drop in the tube/pipe down in the center of the new filter, replace the 2 13mm nuts. do not over tighten or you will strip out the studs in the housing. I hold the wratchet by the head and tighten that way.
There is 2 small "O" Rings on the pipe in the filter lid. They need to be replaced if old hard and cracked. the Auto Zone kit will have these in it.
When draining the Differential, be sure to remove the fill plug first before draining. If you drain it and can`t get the fill plug out.................
The return lines are easy. pull off the old lines, and push on the new ones. do not use a knife or razor blade knife to cut the hose off the injector nipples, you do not not want knick the nipples and maybe cause a leak. If a piece of hose breaks off and stays on the nipple. I use a pair of needle none or pair of pliers, and squeeze the side of the hose and pull it off w/o catching the nipple.
The end injector with the plug, you can remove the plug and reuse it.
This is all DIY stuff.
Where are you located?
Charlie