Quote:
Originally Posted by svengruber
"If you need to swap the entire device the process is more involved in that the FSM describes removing the IP from the engine, then installing the timing device onto it and then installing both into place together. Of course that requires more work and parts removed to get the IP out". Dang, the project just got a lot more complicated and expensive....!!! If I have to remove the IP+, I think I just exceeded the value of the car in mechanic fees and it is time to put the moneypit out to pasture....dang x2. I will examine the replacement timing device this evening and determine if there is any way possible to only remove/replace the cam portion and not the entire timing device.
Looking at the MB repair manual procedure (07.1-8014, as attached in first thread)....paraphrased, Step #8 - remove timing device, #9 - unscrew plug, #10 - turn IP camshaft and lock, #11 install new timing device, #12 remove lock bolt, #13 put everything back together, #14 - "Test start of delivery with digital tester (07.1-112), set if necessary (07.1-117)" I am now to assume that step #14 basically means you have to re-time the IP no matter what if using this procedure, correct?
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Well if you're paying someone to do the wrenching it can get cost prohibative pretty quickly unfortunately. I completely understand some folks need to go this route but on the other hand it's mainly just unbolting and removing parts and replacing them if someone has the time, place, inclination and a few hand tools usually.
Like I described because of the way things go together it is possible to get a situation where because of device tolerances and differences it is possible to have the timing change a bit when swapping parts out and in, so the FSM is pretty much always going to recommend testing as a means to verify the timing circumstances.
At least with this procedure as long as it is followed the potential timing issue is not one of possible mechanical interference but one of syncronicity beteen the mechaical components and the fueling start of delivery. Usually when the IP Timing device is removed or installed as a unit and assuming everything with the crank and camshaft is done properly the SOD will be quite close to its spec of 15 degrees ATDC, maybe a degree or two off. That is usually adjusted using the A-B Timing light tool because that is pretty easy and accurate, but using the IP lock tool as a means of verifing IP camshaft position can be virtually just as accurate, it just takes a bit more patience and effort to do so. Instead of using the light the correct timing is verified on the IP crankshaft, then if necessary the IP is loosened and adjusted to center the blade/tang in the opening where the locking tool needs to interface without any problem. It's in effect, a simpler but accurate mechanical indication of the IP being properly positioned, whereas the A-B Light uses essentially the same mechanical interface but translates that to an illuminated visual output that is slightly variable and much more easily observable.
But it is perfectly possible to get the things done with a correct end result is just takes a bit longer.