Quote:
Originally Posted by lee polowczuk
i think you ought to re-read the posts...every one is trying to help you...
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Naa, I'm beyond help. . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee polowczuk
no universals on our vintage mbz=s
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My 97 SL320 spare drive shaft has a universal joint in the center. In fact ,any drive shaft that has a center bearing _has_ to have some sort of flexing joint very near the bearing otherwise the drive shaft will be put on a bind as the engine - trans / rear diff bounce around.
An exception to this rule would the 1963 Pontiac Tempest with independent rear suspension ( and sometimes positraction rear end ) as these had front engine but rear transmission connected by a 5/8" diameter torsion bar drive shaft enclosed in a casing that was bent to clear the floor.
The similarly bodied 64 Buick Skylark had front engine / trans that was connected to a solid rear axle with a one piece rigid drive shaft that uses a u joint at each end. So this exception does not apply, . . . even if it has metallic mint green paint. . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee polowczuk
a shop will have to press the old center bearing out... and put a new one in....
don't fight it, man
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Uhmm. . Having owned an auto repair shop in the past for about 10 years and with the equipment I've acquired in the ensuing 15 years, I'm better equipped than most run on the mill for profit shops so changing a pressed on bearing is trivial for me. . . But, that isn't the original question I posed.
Besides, I'm working as a manufacturing engineer / fix anything guy at a factory, the u joint centering / staking problem is overcomeable. .
I've found this thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/293976-drive-shaft-u-joint-staked-crimped-place-now-what-do.html
Still no malice. .